Scratch built Killa Kans

The new Games Workshop Killa Kans have been out for a couple weeks, and they look great. I won’t be able to purchase them for a while, so I’m making some stand-ins until I can get the actual models. So far I have all six bodies done, except for rivets and a few other small details I’ll add after I get all of the major parts put together. The arm joints are magnetic, so I can swap out different weapons and make it easier to transport them(big arms tend to catch and break). On the right side of the picture is one of the leg types I’ll be using, although it makes the Kan sit a bit higher than I wanted. The shoulder plates are a carry over from the new official models, I’m not sure I want to put them on all of the Kans.

I’ll be making a custom foam tray and removing one of my Trukk foam trays from my army transport. For the curious, I use the Army Transport Motor Pool, a great carrying case!

Hope to have at least the legs done by tomorrow so I can use them in a game. I’ll be updating this as work progresses.


I was in a hurry yesterday to get these guys standing, and knew I was going to end up rushing parts of the build…
Let this be a lesson to all, don’t rush builds!
I got them standing, but a few look way too front or back heavy. This is because the legs were angled at a 90 degrees
instead of a 45, so instead of supporting the Kans weight, they look like they are mid-fall…
I might add two more legs to a couple, and make them 4 legged?

The little Kannons that are attached to these guys are NOT what I’ll be using as grotzookas, again I was in a rush and grabbed the closest
thing I already had made, which were some experimental lobbas I was going to use for artillery. They didn’t turn out like I hoped so I stuck some magnets on
them fast and stuck them on.

The bases are made from a hole saw, they are exactly the same size as the 60mm base(which is actually 65mm on the bottom). The middle is covered wih styene because the hole saw has a drill bit in the center, and it’s much more difficult to cut without it.

I’ll do a tutorial on how to make these guys, I still need 3 more for a proppa Kan bash, and I’d like to try some different face plates. The bodies are made from pvc pipe
with very thin styrene wrapped around it. I cut the styrene wider than the pipe, then glue it to itself after wrapped. Then trim it down to match the width of the pipe almost exactly, then glue a plate to the top and bottom, then wrap strips of styrene around the body before trimming down the plate to match the new top and bottom widths.
I’ll show all this in the tutorial, but for now, heres the pipe I use. It’s 7/8 inch pipe(diameter) which matches the new Kan body size well.
I use a mini pipe cutter to cut it, very cool tool I picked up for six dollars at a hardware store.

The tutorial is up! find it: HERE


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